Following a long strenuous trek through knee high mud, a welcoming aloita (greeting) from the Mentawai clan ushered in our stay in their beautiful Umma (clan house). Sheltered from the rain in their wood home under the dried banana leaf roof, we began to observe our surroundings. Skulls of digested monkey and wild boar covered in spider webs, two fire pits and rays of light sneaking into the darkness gave a very distinct energy to the abode. At the onset, children were weary in fear of our unfamiliar faces. They sat close together and clung onto their elder siblings who were watching our every move intently. The man of the house, a young Shaman, soon appeared with his wife and mother-an elder referred to only as Mama. Mama's frail body was covered in ancient intricate patterned tattoos. As fascinating as they were to us, we were to them, and soon our interactions became deeper as we sat in the darkness of the silent night exchanging gifts and clarifying our intentions. Initially a Massai Rungu (hunting weapon) and an Eagle feather were given to the head of the house and beads were presented to Mama. Both were ecstatic! He placed the feather in his hair while Mama said she would make a headpiece out of the small yellow beads and treasure it to her grave. All listened closely and were greatly enthralled that they were now connected by these links to tribes across the globe with traditions so different to their own. They asked many questions about the lifestyle of the Massai and expressed amazement at their ways. Along the course of our stay, a second set of beads and feathers were given to an elder Shaman, by the name of Masa. Accompanying these gifts was a formal invitation from the St'at'imic Nation to the International Indigenous Gathering of 2010. He accepted this enthusiastically and logistics are to be worked out upon our return to Canada. This act of respect and appreciation for their culture led him to extend an invitation for a return and prolonged stay with him in his home. This was a sign of great success for Apo Calypso’s step one of its module; relationship building. In addition, it signaled the beginning of step two, collaboration, as Masa explained that in the next visit he would share the ancient Shaman ways of the Jungle.
As the sun awoke and the wild roosters crowed, every morning we rose with the Mentawai. As the children were off to school we had the privilege of participating with the elders in their daily activities. The Sagu tree serves an integral purpose for the Mentawai as their main source of food. Their elaborate processing of its nutrients is a practice passed down through the generations. They use every part of this being-the inside of the bark is scraped then filtered into a canoe filled with water. It soaks and transforms into an edible mush, which is then collected in a basket weaved from banana leaves, and stored underwater until it is needed. It is then dried and fed to the animals and family. One week’s work by four men for four hours a day provides enough Sagu for three months. Excess bark is sold in neighboring towns for furniture. In the evenings Mama would fill the dried Sagu into Sagu leaves and roast it in the backfire. On special occasions it would be marinated in coconut and sugar and have a mananam (delicious), mild and sweet taste.
The intimate relationship with their surrounding habitat has enabled the Mentawais to foster a deep knowledge of its workings. In preparation for a healing ceremony, we followed as the Shamans walked through the thick bush and collected the appropriate herbs for the illness to be treated. The ceremony itself included a chicken slaughter followed by a mystical song to ward off evil spirits. The herb concoction was then soaked and rubbed on the sick in a methodical cleansing manner. The treatment was miraculously effective, showcasing the strength of medicinal remedies made with nature's ingredients. The traditions of this culture are ample and the preservation of all living things is prevalent. Another close relationship is that with the Cocoa tree. Its savory fruit is eaten and the seeds are sold for the making of chocolate, then the bark is peeled and beaten to create the loincloth for men to dress. The ingenuity of harnessing nature is exemplified beautifully in these people’s organized and waste-less use of their sustenance.
As time progressed and the children witnessed our growing friendship with their elders, they began to warm up their smiles and open our hearts with the joy of their playful laughter and songs. They taught us one song that particularly left a strong impression: Redemennu Mentawai (Remember Mentawai), and we hope they too will have fond memories of us as they grow. The little girls joined as we took part in traditional fishing with Mama and gladly led us to the hidden spots they know so well. The boys marveled at the camera and blew us away with their skilled involvement in traditional dance and pig slaughter. One baby, Alamata, blessed our eyes with a breathtaking scene of him bathing in the river. We grasped the opportunity to capture the pure innocence he embodied for that moment in time.
To create a captivating conclusion to our stay, the Shamans treated us with the performance of a dance ceremony. Fourteen different songs were chanted in praise of varying creatures of the jungle ranging from the Monkey, to the Snake, the Butterfly, and the Eagle. The beats of the drums were entrancing and their magical music played the tune of balanced bliss. We are eternally grateful for their embrace of us in their home and this sneak peak into their worldview.
And so, as time unwinds, we prepare to say our goodbyes to the Indah (beautiful) Indonesia and extend our warmest terima kasih’s to its humble and helpful people. We have learned so much in our precious five weeks in this enchanting place. We hope to produce a piece that truly reflects the wonder of unity in this diverse and rich corner of the world-insha’allah.
Terima Kasih for your support for us here in Indonesia!
Onward and Upward,
Apo Calypso Productions
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